Chihiro and her parents are moving to a new town. Whilst driving, her father gets lost, stumbling across what appears to be an abandoned theme park. The family crosses a tunnel and explores the park, finding the stalls are full of freshly-cooked food. While Chihiro's parents are eating, Chihiro wanders off and meets a boy named Haku. Haku seems to be familiar with Chihiro and warns her urgently to escape with her parents; she returns to find her parents have turned to pigs and that the way back has become a deep river. Spirits appear and go about celebrating in the park. Haku secretly takes Chihiro to a large bathhouse, careful to avoid alerting the spirits to the presence of a human. Haku then tells her that she must get a job from the witch Yubaba, the owner of the park's bathhouse, until he can help her recover her parents and escape.

With the help of the boiler room master Kamajii and a bathhouse servant girl Lin, Chihiro is able to convince Yubaba to give her a job; in exchange, Chihiro is forced to give up her name so that Yubaba may keep her in her service forever and is subsequently given the name "Sen". Chihiro eventually learns that Haku is similarly indebted to Yubaba. Chihiro is put to work alongside Lin, helping to bathe and serve the most difficult spirits in the bathhouse. Chihiro is able to successfully bathe a "stink spirit", in fact revealed to be a river spirit who awards Chihiro with a magic, healing, cake made from special weeds, as well as with gold. Later, Chihiro discovers Haku's true form, a dragon, as he is attacked by paper birds controlled by Zeniba, Yubaba's twin sister. Haku had stolen Zeniba's sigil under orders from Yubaba. Chihiro tries to help Haku recover using the cake given to her by the river god, which acts as an emetic to the dragon, thus recovering Zeniba's sigil, but Haku remains comatose and Chihiro decides to travel to Zeniba's home to return the sigil, hoping to break her curse. Chihiro sets out on a lonely train ride across the spirit world - along with a wraith-like spirit called No Face who terrorized the bathhouse and tried to earn the affection of Chihiro, and Boh, Yubaba's gigantic infant son that Zeniba has transformed into a mouse.

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